025 if I remember correctly Gaskets: - Intake: Fel-Pro 1262S3- Oil Pan: FEL-OS34508R- Valve Cover: SUM-G2321- Head Gasket: Cometic (C5515-0564.155), non svo. 579"/.576" 115lsa, LJMS spec'd- Lifters: Comp Cams (8380-16)- Pushrods: 3/8 Comp- Intake Manifold: Edelbrock Victor Jr- Carburetor: CSU Blow Through, mechanical secondary, double pumper, 650cfm, 68 primary 72 secondary, - CSU Carb hat- Water Pump: Moroso EWP- Thermostat: EMP Stewart Components Modified High Flow, 180*- Headers: Pony Down Performance built turbo headers with V Bands- Ignition: MSD 6AL with rev limiter at 6500rpms, MSD 8252 ignition coil- Distributor: MSD Billet (8584), MSD Cap (84083)- Alternator: Tough Stuff, black- Balancer: Fluidampr- Moroso valve cover breathers- Wires: Delphi Packard wires- Spark Plugs: NGK V-Power 9, gapped at. This thing looks way better in person! 1970 Ford Maverick GrabberPrice: $27k oboEngine: - Man o War SBF (087020), Iron, 363ci- Bore 4.125, stroke 3.400, 60cc, 8.205 deck height - 9.8:1 CR- Timing: Comp Cams billet timing set- Pistons: CP Bullet series BF6110-std, forged, flat top, -8.7cc dish relief- Rings: RS8GNHD-4125-0- Crankshaft: SCAT forged (-5400-2123)- SCAT rods- Oil Pan: Kevko F405 Fox Body 351w- Front Timing Cover: Speedmaster, aluminum (PCE265.1028)- Oil Pump: Melling (MEL-10688)- Main Bearings: 2.248- Heads: Brodix (1061010), T1 F STD X, 195cc intake port, 2.08 intake valve, 1.600 exhaust valve. I'm flexible on the price, but before you lowball me, or even offer, come check out the car in person. The only other risk is the upward pressure could fold the hood like a square body Chevy pickup hood does when the hinges get old and rusty, but this car obviously isn't having a problem.and if someone is concerned a little bit of reinforcement to spread the pressure farther up the hood deals with that.As much as I love, and probably SHOULD keep this car forever, I am thinking about selling it to get into another Corvette. When you need to work back there pop the strut loose and just use the prop rod like Ford intended. It's going to present a little reach around obstacle when you're working in the back of the engine compartment, but I see the prop rod is still in place. Find a hood or trunk strut with a collapsed length just slightly shorter than that dimension. Transfer where that point on the hinge rests when the hood is down onto the fender or fender aprons, then measure from there to the point on the shock tower where you want to mount the other end of the strut. First, determine the location of the ball stud on the front end of the hinge. This setup avoids that problem, and I think I see how to do it. Click to expand.I know one of the posters here did a lot of work to put the struts right on the hinges only to find out the hinges aren't up to the prying force exerted by them.
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